Dunja Brill Bücher

This thesis conducts a qualitative analysis of gendered identities and representations within the Gothic subculture in Britain and Germany, focusing on the interplay between ‘subversive’ and ‘stereotypical’ elements. Through in-depth textual analysis of ethnographic interviews, Internet forum content, and music fanzines/magazines, it examines gender-related norms in aspects such as dress, male-female relations, sexualities, and music. The findings reveal a gendered hierarchy of subcultural capital beneath the ideology of ‘genderlessness’ prevalent in Goth rhetoric. Practices that appear progressive, like the idealization of male androgyny and the celebration of alternative sexualities, often reinforce stereotypical gender norms within the subculture. Nonetheless, the analysis also uncovers opportunities for progressive gender politics, showcasing explorative renegotiations of traditional masculinity and femininity in Gothic practices. To fully grasp the socio-political relevance of these subcultural practices, it is essential to consider both micro-political (individual or intra-subcultural) and macro-political (general cultural) dimensions. This dual perspective reveals that codes and practices reinforcing restrictive gender norms can simultaneously challenge broader societal gender stereotypes. Ultimately, the thesis problematizes the notion of subculture as a postmodern space for collective Utopian impulses.

Explores Goths' expressive practices of dress, fashion, style and the body, in relation to issues of identity and representation. This book shares accounts of the author's experiences exploring gender and sexuality and doing fieldwork in the Gothic subculture.